Identifying the Gold Marking on Jewellery

Gold markings on Jewellery are more than just tiny symbols—they’re key to understanding the quality and value of a piece. 

These markings, called hallmarks, verify that the gold is genuine and reveal its purity, which is essential for buyers, sellers, and collectors. 

Identifying these marks can protect you from fakes, ensure you’re getting fair value, and even add confidence when investing in gold.

Understanding Gold Hallmarks and Why They’re Use

A hallmark is a set of marks stamped on gold Jewellery showing authenticity and quality. These marks provide key details about the metal’s purity, maker, and production year. In the UK, official assay offices regulate hallmarks to ensure consumers get accurate information about their purchases.

The main purpose of hallmarking is to confirm the authenticity and quality of gold items, protecting consumers. Hallmarks indicate the gold’s purity, such as 9K, 14K, or 18K, helping prevent fraud. This system builds trust between buyers and sellers regarding the Jewellery’s value.

Hallmarking has a long history, starting around 1300 in England under King Edward I’s regulations for silver and gold. Goldsmiths’ Company was created to manage the hallmarking process, introducing various marks to signify purity. 

Over time, hallmarking evolved, and the Hallmarking Act of 1973 unified historical laws, making it a key part of the Jewellery industry today.

Types of Marks Found on Gold Jewellery

Carat or Karat Markings

Carat (or karat in the U.S.) measures the purity of gold on a scale from 0 to 24, with higher numbers indicating purer gold. Here’s a breakdown of common carat markings:

These markings help consumers understand a piece’s value and expected durability, with pure 24K being softer and less suited for everyday wear compared to lower karats that are alloyed with other metals for strength.

Maker’s Marks

A maker’s mark identifies the individual or company responsible for creating the piece, serving as a signature or logo that often includes letters or symbols. This type of mark has a long history and can add collectible value, especially for antique or designer Jewellery. Examples include traditional marks from houses like:

• Tiffany & Co.: Often marked with “T&Co.” or “Tiffany.”
• Cartier: Typically marked with “Cartier” or a distinctive logo.

Assay Marks

Assay offices verify gold content to ensure that each piece meets specific purity standards. The main assay offices in the UK, for instance, are in London, Birmingham, Sheffield, and Edinburgh, each represented by a unique symbol. 

These offices test and mark gold to certify its purity, reassuring buyers of the Jewellery’s value and authenticity.

Fineness Markings

Fineness marks show the gold content in parts per thousand:

• 375: 37.5% gold, equivalent to 9K
• 585: 58.5% gold, or 14K
• 750: 75% gold, representing 18K
• 916: 91.6% gold, similar to 22K
• 999: 99.9% gold, nearly pure 24K

These numbers help in cross-referencing purity standards globally, especially in markets where millesimal fineness is the standard over carat markings.

 Date Letters and Additional Marks

Jewellery often includes date stamps, which can indicate the year of an assay, and additional symbols, which may represent the place of an assay, special events, or commemorative issues. 

In the UK, date letters were once compulsory and can be matched to official tables to pinpoint the year a piece was certified, providing historical context and enhancing value for antique collectors.

Popular Hallmarks and Their Meanings

1. Leopard’s Head:
   • Used by the London Assay Office, the leopard’s head is a hallmark of British origin, symbolizing authenticity and quality. Historically, it’s appeared in different forms and represents items hallmarked in London since the 14th century.
2. Anchor:
   • An anchor symbolizes Jewellery hallmarked in Birmingham. This mark has been in use since 1773 and remains a recognized symbol in British hallmarking.
3. Crown:
   • Often seen on antique gold, the crown is a traditional purity mark for gold in Britain, especially before 1999. It indicates the item’s gold content and carat (e.g., 18K or 22K).
4. Thistle:
   • Associated with Scottish items, especially those hallmarked in Edinburgh, the thistle symbol denotes authenticity for Scottish-made items.
5. Other UK Hallmarks:
   • Symbols like the castle (for Edinburgh), the rose (used in historic York hallmarks), and other regional marks (like Chester’s wheat sheaves) also contribute to identifying the item’s origin.

These symbols help identify where a piece comes from and check its quality. They help collectors and buyers make sure the item is real.

How to Read and Locate Hallmarks on Jewellery

Hallmarks are typically found in inconspicuous places on Jewellery, such as:

• Inside Rings: Look along the inner band for hallmark symbols, especially in antique rings.
• Clasp of Chains and Bracelets: Check near the clasp or where the Jewellery joins.
• Back of Pendants and Brooches: These often carry hallmarks on the reverse side.
• Earrings: Posts and backs sometimes bear the hallmark symbols.

Step-by-Step Guide:

1. Examine the piece under good lighting and use a magnifying glass.
2. Identify hallmark symbols like assay office marks, maker’s marks, and purity indicators.
3. Compare each symbol with reputable hallmark guides, looking for the assay office or purity levels.
4. Consult historical guides if the hallmark appears antique to cross-reference with known vintage symbols.

Antique Gold Hallmarks vs. Modern Hallmarks

Understanding hallmark standards across eras is vital for collectors and Jewellers. Antique and modern gold hallmarks have notable differences:

1. Historical Requirements:
   • Antique hallmarks often included four parts: the maker’s mark, assay office, purity mark, and date mark. Post-1999, the date mark became optional, and purity marks became more standardized.
2. Purity and Standards:
   • Up until 1854, only 18ct and 22ct were standard gold purity levels in the UK. Later, other standards (like 9ct and 14ct) were added, impacting the hallmark symbols used.
   • Modern hallmarks use numerals representing gold purity in thousandths (e.g., 375 for 9ct gold), while older marks might display only the carat number or even a crown symbol, making them distinct from post-20th-century hallmarks.
3. Symbol Evolution:
   • Modern hallmarks have clearer, more consistent symbols due to contemporary regulations. Antique symbols can vary by era and region, with earlier hallmarks being less standardized, reflecting local and historical influences.

Common Gold Markings Beyond Hallmarks

Aside from traditional hallmarks, there are specific terms and symbols used to indicate gold that isn’t solid or pure. These markings help differentiate between solid gold, gold-plated, and other forms.

Gold Plated, Gold Filled, and Vermeil

• Gold Plated: Gold-plated Jewellery has a thin layer of gold electroplated over a base metal (like copper or brass). Markings may include “GP,” “HGE” (Heavy Gold Electroplate), or “RGP” (Rolled Gold Plate). These markings indicate that the item is not solid gold and typically has a much lower gold content.
• Gold Filled: Jewellery marked “GF” (Gold Filled) has a thicker layer of gold bonded to a base metal, making it more durable than gold-plated items. It usually contains at least 5% gold by weight, making it more valuable than standard plating.
• Vermeil: Vermeil is sterling silver coated with a thicker layer of gold, often marked with “925” (for sterling silver content) or “Vermeil.” It must have at least 10 carats of gold for the classification and is generally of higher quality than standard gold plating.

Plumb Gold

“Plumb” gold indicates that the gold content is precisely as stated, with no margin of error. For instance, if a piece is marked “14KP,” it means it is exactly 14 carats, not slightly less due to manufacturing variations. 

This mark is primarily used in the United States and assures consumers that the gold content meets the exact purity specified, giving confidence in its authenticity and value.

The Chemistry of Gold Purity: Millesimal Fineness Scale

The millesimal fineness scale represents gold purity in parts per thousand, offering a more precise measurement than the carat (or karat in U.S.) system. For example:

Converting Carats to Millesimal Fineness

To convert carats to millesimal fineness, you can use the following formula:

Fineness = Carat Number 100024

Example for 18K:

Fineness = 18 100024 = 750

So, 18K gold has a fineness of 750.

What if There’s No Hallmark on Your Gold?

Sometimes, Jewellery or gold items may not have a hallmark. Here are some reasons why and what you can do about it:

Reasons for Missing Hallmarks:

1. Age of the Piece: Older items made before hallmarking became standard might not have marks.
2. International Standards: Some countries don’t require hallmarks, so imported pieces may lack them.
3. Wear and Tear: Hallmarks can fade or wear off over time, especially on Jewellery that is often worn.

Verifying Purity Without a Hallmark:

1. Acid Testing: Jewellers can use a mild acid solution to test the metal; certain reactions show the gold content.
2. Electronic Testing: Special devices can measure how well the metal conducts electricity to determine its purity.
3. XRF Analysis: Professionals often use X-ray fluorescence analysis for very accurate measurement of gold content.

Can You Trust Gold Markings? Spotting Fake Stamps

Fake gold marks are common, so knowing how to spot them can help you avoid fraud. Here are some signs of counterfeit marks and tips to check for authenticity.

Common Signs of Fake Gold Marks:

1. Inconsistent Quality: Real gold has a rich, even color and feels heavy. If a piece looks cheap or feels light, it might be fake.
2. Unusual Carat Numbers: Be careful of strange carat markings like “14K.5” or “18KGP” (which means “gold-plated”). These can indicate a fake item.
3. Magnetic Reaction: Pure gold is not magnetic. If a gold piece is attracted to a magnet, it likely contains other metals.
4. Poorly Engraved Stamps: Real hallmarks are clear and well-made. Fake marks may look messy or unclear.

Tips to Avoid Fake Markings and Verify Authenticity:

1. Buy from Reputable Dealers: Trusted Jewellers are more likely to sell genuine gold. Always ask for proof of authenticity.
2. Inspect Hallmarks Closely: Use a magnifying glass to check hallmarks for clarity and consistency.
3. Request a Gold Purity Test: Many Jewellers can test gold using acid or electronic devices to confirm its authenticity.
4. Check for Serial Numbers: Some manufacturers include serial numbers that can be verified for authenticity.

FAQs

What do different karat markings mean (10K, 14K, 18K)?

Karat markings indicate gold purity, with higher numbers meaning more gold content. For example, 10K is 41.7% gold, 14K is 58.5% gold, and 18K is 75% gold. These markings help buyers understand the quality and value of the Jewellery.

How do I identify gold Jewellery without a stamp?

Without a stamp, gold Jewellery can be tested by a Jeweller, or you can perform simple tests at home like the magnet test, acid test, or density test. However, professional testing provides the most reliable results.

What do specific numbers like 375, 585, and 750 mean?

These numbers represent gold purity on the millesimal fineness scale: 375 means 9K or 37.5% pure, 585 means 14K or 58.5% pure, and 750 means 18K or 75% pure. This system is common outside the U.S.